I am just back from a month in Chamonix in the French Alps. I arrived just after a spell of good weather with the forecast hinting that the fohen wind was about to start. “Oh great” I thought “nothing good ever gets climbed when the fohen wind is blowing. Over the next week Tom and […]Read more "Alpine Spring"
I collapsed under the rock for shelter tired and feeling like I had been absolutely hammered by the Patagonian weather. Pete threw himself down beside me, grunting about how bad this was. We sheltered here for 20 mins and after some food and water braved ourselves for continuing. As you can see from the […]Read more "Patagonia"
I have been back in Scotland for 7 weeks. It has flown by mainly due to the weather being unusually dry and sunny for October which allowed for lots of nice crisp rock climbing in the sun with friends. I felt great to be visiting all my favorite crags with good mates not worrying about […]Read more "Avenging Angel Direct"
After last year’s visit to Canada we questioned our decision to bail off the House-Anderson route on the North Face of Mt Alberta due to bad conditions, we questioned if we should try at a different time of year, and questioned if the route was too big, hard and committing for us. The lure of […]Read more "House Anderson on the North Face of Mt Alberta"
It was 2:30 p.m. on Monday when we sat on the half way ledge, finishing all but two sips of water. Susanne enjoying the heat; me wilting in the baking sun. At that point I felt content that we had climbed 350m and that we could just make the sensible choice… to walk round the […]Read more "Dolomitization"
Who forgets their rock shoes? I mean they’re a fairly essential bit of rock climbing equipment. In fact you could argue that after your fingers they are at number one on the list. Well I forgot mine the other day. I did the whole harness on, rack up and at the last minute realised […]Read more "Forgetfulness"
Last week John McCune and I Climbed the Sans Nom Direct into the top half of the Gabarrou Silvy. We chose this as it was a really cool line straight up the face and because we were limited by time as John had work on Sunday. It was good to climb a direct line […]Read more "The Aigullie Sans Nom"
A few weeks ago, before going on a big day out with Tom, I discovered Asda’s Loaded Mega Chocolate Cookies. They were exactly what was needed for the 20 hour adventure, we had on the Dubh Loch the next day. When the weather’s rubbish, the routes getting hard, it’s taking longer than I had hoped […]Read more "A MEGA LOADED WEEK"
Its 1AM as I drive into Perth, my eyebrows raised as I attempt to keep my eyes open. Its 5 hours since Tom and I had topped out of the second ascent of Vapouriser VIII,8, on Creag an Dubh Loch’s Central Gully Wall. It is just beginning to set in that we had done […]Read more "Vapouriser"
My phone beeps it’s 4:15 pm, just as I start the van. I read the text, it was from Iain asking if I wanted to go and climb in Glen Coe tomorrow. I phone him and say “yes”. Quickly changing my plan from driving home, to driving to buy some food in Fort William. I […]Read more "Shadhavar FWA VIII 9"
After a month of alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies I was ready for some sun, warm rock climbing and some short approaches. Fortunately I had arranged a month of rock climbing with Heather Florence. We were both really psyched to try out some american crack climbing. After meeting up in Las Vegas, we headed […]Read more "Indian Creek"
Tom and I have been in Canada for four weeks. We have had an amazing time traveling to a new country, but have only managed one alpine route. Not for lack of trying, but because of a lack of ice and an abundance of snow. Me looking up at the Andromeda Strain in less […]Read more "North Face of Mt Alberta Attempt"
Tom Livingstone approaching the north Face of Mt Kitchener When Tom and I first saw a photo of Mt Kitchener, we both commented on how it looked like a 200 m Scottish grade VI. After some reading, we discovered it was actually 1200 m. Everything in Canada is bigger than it looks, from […]Read more "Canada Part 1"