Alpine Spring

I am just back from a month in Chamonix in the French Alps. I arrived just after a spell of good weather with the forecast hinting that the fohen wind  was about to start. “Oh great” I thought “nothing good ever gets climbed when the fohen wind is blowing. Over the next week Tom and […]

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I collapsed under the rock for shelter tired and feeling like I had been absolutely hammered by the Patagonian weather. Pete threw himself down beside me, grunting about how bad this was. We sheltered here for 20 mins and after some food and water braved ourselves for continuing.   As you can see from the […]

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Avenging Angel Direct

I have been back in Scotland for 7 weeks. It has flown by mainly due to the weather being unusually dry and sunny for October which allowed for lots of nice crisp rock climbing in the sun with friends. I felt great to be visiting all my favorite crags with good mates not worrying about […]

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It was 2:30 p.m. on Monday when we sat on the half way ledge, finishing all but two sips of water. Susanne enjoying the heat; me wilting in the baking sun. At that point I felt content that we had climbed 350m and that we could just make the sensible choice… to walk round the […]

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  Who forgets their rock shoes? I mean they’re a fairly essential bit of  rock climbing equipment. In fact you could argue that after your fingers they are at number one on the list. Well I forgot mine the other day. I did the whole harness on, rack up and at the last minute realised […]

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The Aigullie Sans Nom

  Last week John McCune and I Climbed the Sans Nom Direct into the top half of the Gabarrou Silvy.  We chose this as it was a really cool line straight up the face and because we were limited by time as John had work on Sunday. It was good to climb a direct line […]

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A few weeks ago, before going on a big day out with Tom, I discovered Asda’s Loaded Mega Chocolate Cookies. They were exactly what was needed for the 20 hour adventure, we had on the Dubh Loch the next day. When the weather’s rubbish, the routes getting hard, it’s taking longer than I had hoped […]



  Its 1AM as I drive into Perth, my eyebrows raised as I attempt to keep my eyes open. Its 5 hours since Tom and I had topped out of the second ascent of Vapouriser VIII,8, on Creag an Dubh Loch’s Central Gully Wall. It is just beginning to set in that we had done […]

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Shadhavar FWA VIII 9

My phone beeps it’s 4:15 pm, just as I start the van. I read the text, it was from Iain asking if I wanted to go and climb in Glen Coe tomorrow. I phone him and say “yes”. Quickly changing my plan from driving home, to driving to buy some food in Fort William. I […]

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Indian Creek

After a month of alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies I was ready for some sun, warm rock climbing and some short approaches. Fortunately I had arranged a month of rock climbing with Heather Florence. We were both really psyched to try out some american crack climbing. After meeting up in Las Vegas, we headed […]

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Canada Part 1

    Tom Livingstone approaching the north Face of Mt Kitchener When Tom and I first saw a photo of Mt Kitchener, we both commented on how it looked like a  200 m Scottish grade VI. After some reading, we discovered it was actually 1200 m.  Everything in Canada is bigger than it looks, from […]

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